We were distracted by clouds of gnats, or were they the infamous midges of the area? With smug satisfaction, I whipped out the repellent we had brought as part of our preparedness plan.Īt the hotel’s insistence, we had made dinner and breakfast reservations, something our other accommodations recommended, too. Hikers milled about, stretching out hamstrings and doing quick kicks to loosen up, while others sat serenely and sipped beers. Inveroran Hotel is where the official itinerary suggests stopping, but because it was fully booked, we ended up at the Bridge of Orchy Hotel. Our hotel sat glowing in the sun along a sleepy stretch of A82, a welcome sight with picnic tables scattered out front and people having drinks and soaking up what was left of an exceptionally nice day. The herd thundered across the narrow bridge we had crossed moments earlier. A brief encounter with a group of Highland cattle was the only time we stopped.Īt the foot of a bridge, a farmer vigorously waving his arms yelled something about moving his cows and told us to stand back, explaining, “They’re skittish!” while jabbing his thumb for us to move away toward a stone wall. The countryside was hilly, and we occasionally passed flocks of grazing sheep who, alarmed, would look up and stare suspiciously at us. Without any fanfare, we started the iconic trail marked with its hallmark symbol resembling the thistle, Scotland’s national flower, walking seven miles along the relatively flat path toward the Bridge of Orchy. (Kathryn Streeter / For The Washington Post) We decided on the legendary West Highland Way, which extends from Milngavie to Fort William in the Scottish Highlands, and we committed to walking the northern half of the approximately 100-mile trail known for its dramatic scenery. This time, however, my husband and I plotted to disappear for four days to fulfill this old hiking dream. Though well aware of the country’s plentiful trails offering cozy inns and warm beds along the way, we had never had the chance to hike one. We’ve grown familiar with the island country, a relationship that started long ago when we lived there as a family. Several months ago, however, we sensed an opening when booking flights to the United Kingdom, where our young adult children live. But last year, as empty nesters, we resolved to finally make it happen, despite the additional challenges posed by the pandemic. Years ago, when our kids were in preschool, my husband and I had what seemed like a crazy pipe dream: Once a year, we would take a multiday hike as a couple.
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